HCT Rear Diffuser Installation

If your wheelie bar is mounted, fully remove it.

If you want to use the rear position light in your diffuser, this should be completed first before mounting the diffuser to the chassis. Place all 9 of the red LEDs into the holes so that ALL of the leads are in the same exact orientation. You want to essentially connect all of the long leads together and all of the short leads together, while ensuring none of the opposing polarity leads touch each other or you’ll short out the power and possibly destroy the LEDs and/or the BEC driving it. I like to bend and lay the grouped leads onto each other and solder them to secure their placement (don’t let it get too hot or you might melt the housing body). Once all of the leads are grouped with solder, you can then solder that to whatever main power leads you’ll connect to. Remember than these red LEDs only need 2 volts of DC power, so running from the main battery or even the receiver will not work and will destroy all of the LEDs. Use a variable BEC or resistors to drop the voltage to 2 volts. I use these micro FPV/drone BECs for these types of applications. Run the main power lead for the LEDs through the large hole at the top of the rear end of the splitter. Each red LED is 2 volts, 20mA, Anode (+) = longer stem, Cathode (-) = shorter stem. Use E6000 glue (or similar) to mount the body of the rear position light in place. Here is the section in my Honda City Turbo Senna Edition video (at 47:12) that shows the wiring of the Rear Position Light. You can now mount the diffuser to the chassis.

You will only use the supplied washers on the top two holes and not the bottom holes. Start with the two bottom bolts. Run a bolt through the bottom diffuser hole, again, with no washer.

Then slide a mounting tube on the bolt so the tube touches the backside of the diffuser. Hand screw the bolt into the corresponding hole that the wheelie bar mounted to. Repeat for the other bottom hole. Then repeat for the top holes, but now include the washers, so the washers touch the bolts’ hex head. Once all bolts are fitted, hand tighten to secure, but do not over tighten!

Note: These photos show the mounting process using the aluminum Yeah Racing shock towers, but the process (minus the slight difference in parts) is the same with the stock shock tower setup.

If you have any questions about installing this part, please let me know and I'll add that information to this page!

General Installation Tips For All Parts

  1. Some parts may still have some support tree remnants. Using needle nose pliers can pluck those stray strands off the main part.
  2. You can also sand down the parts to make them smooth, but be aware that it may lighten or dull the sanded area as compared to the rest of the part if you don't plan on painting them (I didn't paint any of the black parts and kept them bare).
  3. If a bolt needs to get through a stubborn hole, a hole reamer, a micro rat tail file, or even a simple hex driver may be all that's needed to make the hole larger for the bolt.
  4. Some of the large flat surfaces with speckled/rough texture may have residual hot bed adhesion glue residue still on them. If you want to remove that slightly sticky surface, simply clean it with warm water and a micro dot of dish soap (and a soft green Brillo pad can be used to help get the residue off faster).

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